In AD71, the Romans built a fortress in northern Britannia, thus founding the city of York. They called it Eboracum. Even though Eboracum fell into relative obscurity following the Romans’ retreat, they left significant remains behind them.
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Some of these remains have survived the intervening 1600 years and can be seen today. Read on to find out where.
Yorkshire Museum
The ground floor of the Yorkshire Museum houses the “Yorkshire’s Jurassic World” and “Roman York: Meet the People of the Empire” exhibits. Roman York is full of archaeological finds and information that tells us what life was like in Eboracum.
Some of the highlights are a hoard of Roman coins, a sculpture of Emperor Constantine’s head, a mosaic floor you can walk on, and the Ivory Bangle Lady. This last one is the remains of one of six people who lived in Eboracum. These tell us a lot about the kind of people who lived in York during the Roman period, and there is a large display showing everything we know about these particular people (including facial reconstructions!).
Museum Gardens
Outside the Yorkshire Museum, the Museum Gardens house the Multangular Tower. This was a defensive tower on the western corner of the Roman fortress, built in the early 3rd century AD. Before that, there was likely a simpler tower made of turf or wood in the same place.
The present Multangular Tower is a lovely, solid looking structure with both Roman and Medieval stonework visible. There is a lovely bit of grass directly in front of it – the perfect place for photos or a picnic.
City Walls
Photo: Eboracum Fortress Gateway
Of the walls that can be seen today, nothing is Roman. However, significant sections of the walls follow the same lines as the first Roman walls. At a couple of places along the wall, there are marks showing the locations of various landmarks that are no longer there (like the fortress gateway).
The Romans made the original walls with wood, then as York became more important, the wooden walls were replaced by stone. By the time the Vikings arrived, the walls were no good for defence, so they were buried, and new walls built on top.
Bean & Gone
This coffee shop is built into the wall next to Bootham Bar. Their food and coffee are pretty standard for a British café. However, under a glass panel in the floor, you can see part of the foundations of the York’s Roman fortress.
York Minster
While the Minster itself isn’t at all Roman, it is on a site once used by the Romans. During serious engineering fixes to the foundations during the 1960s and 70s, workers uncovered many Roman and Medieval items. Now, many of these objects can be found in the undercroft museum.
Roman treasures include fragments of plasterwork, reconstructed mosaics, and a roof tile with an early Christian symbol inscribed on it. There are also displays showing what the Roman fortress that used to be here looked like and exactly where it was in relation to what is there today.
Outside, there is a relatively modern statue of the Emperor Constantine, who was in York at the time he was declared Emperor. And just across the road from the statue stands a column uncovered along with all the stuff in the undercroft.
Roman Bath Museum
Found under a pub (aptly called Roman Bath), the Roman Bath Museum is a simple display of the ruins of Eboracum’s bath house. The walkway leads visitors through parts of the caldarium and frigidarium. At the end, there is a space for dressing-up and posing with Roman-themed props (I had so much fun).
The museum is rather small and dingy, but fascinating. Among the informative signs, it is crowded with Roman artifacts and replica items, such as tiles showing the sandal-prints of Roman soldiers.
York has played a large role in English history, from the time the Vikings invaded in the 9th century to the beginning of the Tudor era. While the Vikings ruled the north of England, it was capital of the Danelaw and England’s second city; the title “Duke of York” traditionally goes to the reigning monarchs second son; and the archbishop of York is the second most important man in the Church of England.
The Middle Ages was York’s heyday. Much of the city’s layout originates from this time, and quite a few buildings are still in use. Read on for my recommendations of the best places to find Medieval York.
City Walls
The medieval stone walls that were built around York during the 13th century are still mostly in place. They were built on ramparts created when Vikings buried the remains of the Roman walls before building their own walls on top. In the 19th century, the walls were repaired and turned into a public walkway.
Walking the full circuit takes about two hours, but you could easily make a day of it – take it slowly, stop for lunch, and spend some time thoroughly exploring the bars.
Richard III Experience
The Richard III Experience is a small museum found in the city walls. It is housed in Monk Bar, the largest of the remaining gateways and the only one with a functioning portcullis. Most of the building dates from the early 14th century, and Richard III himself had the uppermost floor added.
Richard III’s reign was short and grisly as he fought to retain power. The Experience takes a thorough look at warfare during this time, with displays of weapons and armour, and even the skeleton of a soldier from the Battle of Towton. It also looks at the case for Richard’s involvement in the disappearance of the Princes in the Tower.
Henry VII Experience
Complimentary to the Richard III Experience, the Henry VII Experience is housed in Micklegate Bar. It tells the story of Henry VII, particularly what happened after the Battle of Bosworth and the kind of relationship he had with the city of York.
Clifford’s Tower
All that is left of the two castles built by the Normans in the 11th century is Baile’s Hill (a large mound of dirt with a few trees on it – pretty unremarkable) and Clifford’s Tower. Clifford’s Tower stands at the top of its’ own hill overlooking York Castle Museum. There isn’t all that much to do inside, but it has some gorgeous views.
Clifford’s Tower has played a part in many gruesome medieval events, including a Jewish massacre and the execution of Robert Aske. In fact, its’ name might come from a particularly horrible hanging back when it was still a wooden tower.
Yorkshire Museum
Set in the grounds of what was once the richest abbey in Northern England, Yorkshire Museum has a permanent collection of objects from Medieval York. Called “Capital of the North,” most of the objects displayed are Viking or late medieval. Highlights include the Bedale Hoard, St Mary’s Figure of Christ, and the Middleham Jewel.
Aside from the museum itself, the Yorkshire Museum Gardens house what remains of St Mary’s Abbey. In its’ day, St Mary’s Abbey was among the richest, most powerful monasteries in England. Also in the garden, you can find The Hospitium and the ruins of St Leonard’s Hospital, neither of which are as impressive as the abbey ruins but are both medieval.
Barley Hall
This late medieval townhouse has been restored and opened as a tourist attraction. It was tenanted during the 15th century by the Snawsell family; the father, William Snawsell, was mayor of York in 1468, after which he became an alderman until shortly before his death.
The restoration was done using medieval techniques and historically accurate materials as far as possible. Most of the house is interactive, so you can sit on chairs, pick-up objects, and try on the few available costumes. It’s great fun and very informative.
York Minster
It is believed that a small wooden church stood on this site in the 7th century. The Normans built the first stone Cathedral here, and this building has morphed slightly into the Minster we see today – most of the present building dates from the 13th and 14th centuries.
While you’re there, check-out the undercroft museum. This space is used to display the Roman and Medieval objects found buried under the Minster during engineering works in the 1960s and 70s. Medieval highlights include Saxon Gravestones, the Horn of Ulf, and a ring worn by Walter de Gray (a 13th century archbishop).
Merchant Adventurers Hall
In the Great Hall
Not to be confused with the Merchant Taylor’s Hall, the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall is one of York’s Guildhalls. Built during the mid-14th century, it is still used as a meeting place for the Company of Merchant Adventurers of the City of York. The Company used to be a guild of importers; today they manage the hall and several charities.
The building combines a Great Hall (for meetings) with an Undercroft (for charity) and a Chapel (for religion). The Great Hall is particularly spectacular, with a double ceiling; also look out for the Evidence Chest, a 14th century box used to store the guild’s important documents.
There are also several smaller rooms (perhaps used for more intimate gatherings) with various items from the Hall’s history on display, including silverware, artworks, and a model Napoleon with a very interesting history. All visitors are given a written guide that explains what everything is and what it was used for.
JORVIK Viking Centre
From outside, the building that houses the JORVIK Viking Centre is disappointing; it looks nothing like you would expect. But once inside, the Viking theme becomes much more apparent.
Visitors are guided into a “capsule” that takes them through a recreation of 10th century York. This recreation is based on what was found during an excavation of the site where the Viking Centre stands today.
Once the ride is over, there is a museum/display area that shows some of the Viking era objects that were uncovered on the site. These include the remains of two people, numerous combs, and a sock. There are also several “Vikings” available to answer questions and show off various aspects of Viking life.
Churches
Holy Trinity Goodramgate
By the 14th century, York had over 40 parish churches. More than a dozen church buildings from the medieval era still stand, and while some have been repurposed, many are still used as places of worship.
Unless you’re really into old churches, I recommend picking two or three churches (in addition to the Minster) and visiting those. They tend to look similar to each other after a while and it can be difficult to pick out something special about each one.
The Shambles is a narrow lane that is said to be one of the UK’s most picturesque streets. Up until the 19th century, it was home to the city’s butchers – several buildings still have their old meat-hooks and shelves for displaying meat on the front.
Today, it is lined with mostly non-meat-selling shops, including at least four Harry Potter themed shops, specialty food shops, and other stores perfect for buying quality souvenirs. Through a small alleyway on the western side of the Shambles, there is an open-air market that is also quite nice to wander around, and much less crowded.
Enjoyed this post? Please share on Social Media or leave a comment. Been to York and carried out your own search for the medieval era? How did it go?
York is absolutely littered with old churches, many of them medieval. 14th century York had more than 40 parish churches, plus the cathedral/minster and several monasteries. Many of them are still standing and can be visited. Read on for my comprehensive list of York’s Medieval churches, along with some honourable mentions.
York Minster
York Minster is the huge cathedral at the northern corner of the old city. It is the largest Gothic Cathedral in Northern Europe (don’t take my word on that – I haven’t gone to all the Gothic cathedrals in Northern Europe and measured them).
There may have been a wooden church on this site in York from the 7th century, but construction on the first stone cathedral here started in the 11th century. That cathedral was significantly remodelled from 1220 onwards and became the magnificent building that we see today.
The Minster is the only medieval church on this list that visitors have to pay to enter. While it’s not overly cheap, it is well worth paying for. You cannot go to York without visiting York Minster.
All Saints North Street
This is one of the more out of the way churches in the centre of York. It is located along a quiet stretch of North Street between Lendal and Ouse bridges; access from the Lendal Bridge end is difficult, so I recommend finding your way along from Micklegate.
All Saints North Street claims to have one of the best collections of medieval stained glass in England. This collection includes the Corporal Acts of Mercy window (showing a local wealthy merchant helping the sick and poor) and the Pricke of Conscience window (based on a middle English poem).
All Saints Pavement
Looking down along one of the first streets in York to be paved, All Saints has a tall lantern tower that can be seen from all around the city; presumably the light used to guide travellers towards the city.
This church has a long history, with firm evidence for it having existed since at least the 10th century. It seems to have been a wealthy church with local leaders and merchants as parishioners and once housed a valuable holy relic. Enter the nave and look up – the stunning blue-panelled ceiling dates from the 15th century.
St Helen Stonegate
Towering over St Helen’s Square, this church in the centre of York is dedicated to the mother of Emperor Constantine. There is a stained-glass window in the church with glass from the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries – two of the panels show images that probably represent St Helen and Constantine. Another interesting feature is a memorial to some particularly long-lived sisters.
Much of the church has been rebuilt several times over the centuries, most recently during the Victorian era. The oldest part still there is the font, which dates from the 12th century. There is still some 13th century stonework, but most of the building dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.
St Martin-le-Grand
Founded in the 11th century, this church was extended in the 13th century and had significant buildings works done in the 15th century. In 1730 it became York’s official civic church, and the National Gazetteer of 1868 called it one of the most beautiful churches in York.
Unfortunately, St Martin-le-Grand was bombed during the Second World War. The remains were rebuilt into a memorial to the victims of war. The south wall is original, as is the window at the west end of the building (it was removed to keep it safe during the war and built into the reconstruction). Today, it is a very calm place to take some time out in the middle of the busy city centre.
St Mary Bishophill Junior
The first part of this church to be built was the tower, which dates from just following the Norman Conquest. Shortly afterwards, the nave was built for the growing congregation. As the room at the base of the tower is presently used as a prayer and meeting space, it claims to be the longest continually used worship space in York.
Saint Denys Walmgate
St Denys is a French saint who reportedly carried his decapitated head for several miles. It is worth visiting because of this story alone, even if the church wasn’t so interesting. The building was originally quite a bit larger but part of the land subsided when the King’s Fishpool was drained and a sewer built nearby.
The Norman-style entrance doorway is one of the oldest features, dating from the 1160s-ish. There are also some 12th century carved heads and roundels (thought to be the oldest glass in York). Other notable features include the rest of the stained-glass windows and monuments to the powerful Percy family who lived nearby.
Of all the medieval churches in York, St Denys Walmgate was my favourite.
St Margaret’s Church
This church has existed since at least the 12th century. It was never as rich as neighbouring St Denys, and very little of the original building has stood the test of time. The building was largely rebuilt and enlarged during the 14th century, and during the 17th century the steeple collapsed and wasn’t repaired for yonks.
Today, it is home to the National Centre for Early Music (early music being medieval and renaissance era music). If you ask me, St Margaret’s is the best setting for such an organisation.
Church of the Holy Trinity Goodramgate
Tucked out of sight behind a busy row of shops, this is the only church in York that still has its’ box-pews. Most of the building is from the 15th century, but there are pieces from as early as the 12th century still visible.
The atmosphere inside is old-fashioned and authentic. It has uneven floors, several small alcoves, no electric lighting, and a gorgeous churchyard. I was there in January and I could see my breath. If you’re interested in LGBT history, this is the place where Anne Lister and Ann Walker “took sacrament to seal their union” in 1834.
St Olave’s Church
Just outside the Marygate entrance to the Museum Gardens, St Olave’s used to be home to the order that built St Mary’s Abbey. It was founded in the early 11th century and dedicated to the Viking warrior/king who took Christianity to Norway.
Its’ location makes it easy to visit alongside the Yorkshire Museum and Museum Gardens. Outside, the entrance seems small. Inside, it is large and airy, if a bit dim due to the lack of electric lighting. The churchyard is gorgeous, surrounded by the city walls with beautiful trees providing shade.
St Andrew’s Evangelical Church
The history of this plain building starts during the 14th century. The church was closed in 1559 and over the following centuries the building had many uses, including a stable, a brothel, and a school. Today, it’s back to being a church. It’s small, but they’ve kept many original features, especially outside.
St Cuthbert’s Church
The Lord Mayor of York, William de Bowes, had this church rebuilt in 1430. It has strong links to the family of James Wolfe (aka the Hero of Quebec) leading to it sometimes being called the Cradle of Canada.
It has combined with St Michael le Belfry and now the building is used as church offices. Going inside for a look is difficult, but there’s nothing to see here that you cannot see at another medieval church.
St Michael’s Spurriergate Church
Today the Spurriergate Centre is a chartable trust with an aim to provide community and hospitality with a Christian focus. It is housed in the building that used to house St Michael’s Church; the first stone church here was built in the 12th century and much of the current building is 14th and 15th century.
St Martin-cum-Gregory
St Martin’s Church dates back to the 11th century, though much of the remaining building is from the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1585, St Martin’s combined with St Gregory’s to become St Martin-cum-Gregory. The church now houses a branch of the Stained-Glass Centre.
The Stained-Glass Centre holds lectures and workshops about stained-glass making techniques and history. The building of St Martin-cum-Gregory has what is supposedly some great stained-glass windows, but opening is limited and it wasn’t open during the time I was in York.
A church has been here since before the Norman Conquest. Afterwards, it was left in some disrepair until a group of Benedictine monks from France rebuilt it. The Priory was caught up in the Dissolution of the Monasteries and became a regular parish church.
Today, there are some lovely displays at the back showing visitors the history of the church, the Bible, and the Benedictine order. It’s one of the few churches I visited in York that looked set-up to receive visitors (not just open).
Honourable Mentions
St Michael le Belfry: this church may or may not be medieval, depending on what date you put on the end of the middle ages. Built between 1525 and 1536, it sits on the site of the old Minster Belfry. It is best known as the church where Guy Fawkes was baptised.
St Wilfrid’s Catholic Church: the original church of St Wilfrid was demolished in 1585. The parish was revived in the 1740s and the present church built in the 1860s in the gothic revival style (it looks medieval).
St Saviourgate Unitarian Chapel: this church was built for Presbyterian worship in the 1690s, following the passing of an act allowing greater freedom of worship. Unusually for this time, it is largely made of bricks.
So that’s my super comprehensive list of Medieval Churches in York. Have you visited any of these churches? Tell me what you thought. Do you know of any that I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments.
There isn’t much to do in the English city of York that is free. To be honest, most things to do are priced quite highly for what they are. However, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t free things to do if you look hard enough.
City Walls
After repairs in the Victorian era, the walls were opened as a public walkway. They still follow the path they followed during the middle ages. From different points along the walkway, you can see the Minster, several churches, and other interesting sites. The walk makes a fantastic introduction/orientation to York.
Due to uneven pathways and a lack of safety railing along several sections, most of the walls are unsuitable for small children who might run off. Be aware that they get busy during summer and are often closed due to bad weather in winter.
This is basically a couple of huge sheds filled with all things trains. There’s really old trains, modern trains, royal trains, war trains – pretty much every kind of train you could possibly think of. In addition to this, they have periodic demonstrations, talks, and train experiences.
Entrance is free, though they do bag checks and ask for £5 donations as you walk through the door. I was there on a wet weekend morning and it was jam-packed full of families with small children – you may wish to keep this in mind while planning your visit.
The gardens around the Yorkshire Museum are beautiful and free to walk through. Two of the more notable things to see in the gardens are the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey and the Multangular Tower. Apparently, there are some interesting plants and wildlife, but I don’t know anything about that kind of thing.
Walking Tour
There are at least two companies that do free walking tours of York: the Association of Voluntary Guides and White Rose York (they say they’re free, but expect to tip – about £5 per person seemed normal).
I was very impressed with the White Rose York tour I went on, though I was by far the youngest tourist (I take it most backpackers my age go on the earlier Association of Voluntary Guides tour). Our guide was fantastic and kept telling us stories (we asked him to) so that the tour lasted much longer than advertised.
Alternatively, you could wander the Snickleways in the centre of the city by yourself (don’t miss The Shambles). It is rather easy to lose track of where you are, however, so I don’t recommend this. There is also a self-guided Cat Trail; it leads you around the city, looking at cats on the sides of buildings. The cats themselves are underwhelming, but at least they gave some structure to my wanderings.
Churches
York is littered with picturesque medieval churches, many of which are still in use. With the exception of the Minster, they’re free to enter when open. Some are more spectacular than others, but they all have their individual quirks and differences in history.
I was fortunate enough to be in York for Residents’ Weekend, so a lot of the churches had increased accessibility and extra volunteers available. My favourites would include St Denys Walmgate and Holy Trinity Goodramgate.
So that’s my list of free things to do in York. Do you want to visit York? or have you already been there?
Planning to visit the UK
later this year, I’ve been researching what there is to see and do. The
following is what I want to do while I’m overseas, categorised by city. I might
not get to do all of it, but this list provided some small direction to my
trip. It also helps with looking forward to the trip (and I am so getting
excited for it!!!).
London
Big Ben seen through the London Eye
London is a brilliant
city full of history and culture. I would love to spend several days just
walking around, looking at things, discovering hidden gems that might not be in
travel guides and tourist brochures. However, I wouldn’t just wander around aimlessly;
I have a book (bought 2nd-hand) called “Walking Village London”
which details a selection of walks around different areas of London that I
would use as a rough guide.
I absolutely must go to The British Museum and The Museum of London. We did go to The British Museum in 2015 but couldn’t spend as much time there as I would have liked (I could spend a week in there, easily). Both museums are free to visit and I intend to spend a significant amount of time at them.
I would love to spend a day
at The Tower of London and another at Westminster. However, both places cost
quite a bit for a proper visit (£22.50 entrance to The Tower), so I might have
to content myself with walking around outside.
As a day trip from London, I would like to visit St. Albans. Apparently, St. Albans used to be one of Roman Britain’s largest cities. It is now home to St. Albans Cathedral and Verulamium Museum, both of which I would like to visit. I also wouldn’t mind a trip out to Windsor Castle, but that would cost a bit much.
Cambridge
One of the sisters I’m
hoping to stay with lives a short train ride from Cambridge. I’ve been looking
at what there is to do, both in and around Cambridge as well as at various
stops along the train line that runs past her place. If I can’t stay with her,
I will still spend a week or two in Cambridge (by the look of things, I could
easily find plenty of enjoyable things to do there).
Cambridge has a lot of
free churches, museums, and university colleges that sound interesting and that
I would like to look around. Of these, I particularly want to visit Little St.
Mary’s Church, Magdalene College, Fitzwilliam Museum, and the Polar Museum.
King’s College Chapel and Round Church aren’t free, but also sound like they
would be worth a visit.
When looking at the train
line, I looked at King’s Lynn, a coastal town at the end of the line with a
selection of interesting looking sites. While King’s Lynn doesn’t have a hostel
for staying overnight, I would like to visit, just as a day trip. I have always
wanted to see Ely Cathedral and when I looked, I found that Ely had other sites
that I would like to visit on a day trip. Another day trip that I might take is
to Bury St. Edmunds. There’s a church, cathedral, hall, and gardens that I
would like a look around.
Closer to my sister’s
house are the towns of Hertford, Hitchin, and Stevenage. Hertford (the county
town of Hertfordshire) has a castle and a museum that I would like to visit,
and a heritage trail that I might follow if the weather’s not too bad. Hitchin
is home to the North Hertfordshire Museum, along with cobbled streets and a
selection of historic buildings. Stevenage has Knebworth House and Park, and the
New and Old town centres. Other miscellaneous sites an easy train ride away
include Hatfield House and the International Garden Cities Exhibition.
Paris
Breakfast at a Paris cafe – 2015
I would love to duck down
to Paris for a week. However, such a trip would add about $1000NZ to my budget,
even with my cheepskate attitude to money (I’m looking into Lille instead: the
Eurostar also goes direct from London to Lille, and transport and accommodation
costs might be cheaper). If I do make it to Paris, there are several things
that I would like to do or buy.
One thing I would like to
do is to climb up the Eifel Tower during the day; when my family was in Paris
in 2015, we went up the Eifel Tower at night and the city lights that we could
see were pretty but indeterminate and it was
impossible to get a decent photo. (the Eifel Tower isn’t going anywhere; if I
don’t get to Paris this trip, I can always do it later)
Aside from that I really
just want to wander around, absorbing the ambiance, looking at things. I want
to practice speaking French, eat French food, and experience French culture (to
a degree). I can do that just as well in Lille as I can in Paris.
If I can find a decent
bookstore, there are some books that I would like to buy. I have been trying to
read books in French in order to improve my skills in the language. So far, I
have stuck to cheap books, but there are a couple of stories that I have read
(and loved and reread again and again) in English that I would like to try in
French, just because I already know the story really well. However, getting a
French copy in New Zealand costs too much.
York
York, in the north of
England, has a rich and fascinating history: from its foundation by the Romans,
through tussles between invading Vikings and the local Anglo-Saxons, to destruction
and rebuilding by the Normans. When thinking about possible places for a trip
within a trip, York really stood out.
York Minster is one of my
York must-sees; it’s the largest cathedral in Northern Europe and the centre of
Christianity in Northern England. Built on the site of a 7th century
wooden chapel, the current building is a spectacular Gothic style act of
worship. I particularly want to see the crypt and the Rose Window. Another
church that I might visit is the Church of the Holy Trinity (it’s free).
I also really must
explore the Museum Gardens. They contain several old buildings and ruins that I
want to look at, including the Multangular Tower (first built by the Romans),
St Mary’s Abbey (a Benedictine Monastery), and St Leonard’s Hospital (also a
church and a school). The Yorkshire Museum is found at the edge of the Gardens and
contains exhibits on Eboracum (Roman York) and other archaeology. I also want
to look at York Castle Museum (not in the Museum Gardens) and their exhibits on
every-day life in York over the centuries.
A walk around the York
City Walls is another thing I really must do. It still has several Bars (gates)
that are well preserved (or restored) and appear to be worth the visit. A
couple of the Bars (Monk and Micklegate) house small exhibitions dedicated to
Richard III (England’s final Yorkist king) and Henry VII (England’s first Tudor
king), both of whom I find interesting.
