Tag: UK

Posted on by — 2 Comments

11 Amazing Places to Find Medieval York, England

Where to find the middle ages in the northern English city of York
Save Me on Pinterest!!

York has played a large role in English history, from the time the Vikings invaded in the 9th century to the beginning of the Tudor era. While the Vikings ruled the north of England, it was capital of the Danelaw and England’s second city; the title “Duke of York” traditionally goes to the reigning monarchs second son; and the archbishop of York is the second most important man in the Church of England.

The Middle Ages was York’s heyday. Much of the city’s layout originates from this time, and quite a few buildings are still in use. Read on for my recommendations of the best places to find Medieval York.

City Walls

The medieval city walls of York, England

The medieval stone walls that were built around York during the 13th century are still mostly in place. They were built on ramparts created when Vikings buried the remains of the Roman walls before building their own walls on top. In the 19th century, the walls were repaired and turned into a public walkway.

Walking the full circuit takes about two hours, but you could easily make a day of it – take it slowly, stop for lunch, and spend some time thoroughly exploring the bars.

Richard III Experience

The Richard III Experience is a small museum found in the city walls. It is housed in Monk Bar, the largest of the remaining gateways and the only one with a functioning portcullis. Most of the building dates from the early 14th century, and Richard III himself had the uppermost floor added.

Richard III’s reign was short and grisly as he fought to retain power. The Experience takes a thorough look at warfare during this time, with displays of weapons and armour, and even the skeleton of a soldier from the Battle of Towton. It also looks at the case for Richard’s involvement in the disappearance of the Princes in the Tower.

Henry VII Experience

Complimentary to the Richard III Experience, the Henry VII Experience is housed in Micklegate Bar. It tells the story of Henry VII, particularly what happened after the Battle of Bosworth and the kind of relationship he had with the city of York.

Clifford’s Tower

Inside Clifford's Tower, medieval york uk

All that is left of the two castles built by the Normans in the 11th century is Baile’s Hill (a large mound of dirt with a few trees on it – pretty unremarkable) and Clifford’s Tower. Clifford’s Tower stands at the top of its’ own hill overlooking York Castle Museum. There isn’t all that much to do inside, but it has some gorgeous views.

Clifford’s Tower has played a part in many gruesome medieval events, including a Jewish massacre and the execution of Robert Aske. In fact, its’ name might come from a particularly horrible hanging back when it was still a wooden tower.

Yorkshire Museum

Set in the grounds of what was once the richest abbey in Northern England, Yorkshire Museum has a permanent collection of objects from Medieval York. Called “Capital of the North,” most of the objects displayed are Viking or late medieval. Highlights include the Bedale Hoard, St Mary’s Figure of Christ, and the Middleham Jewel.

Aside from the museum itself, the Yorkshire Museum Gardens house what remains of St Mary’s Abbey. In its’ day, St Mary’s Abbey was among the richest, most powerful monasteries in England. Also in the garden, you can find The Hospitium and the ruins of St Leonard’s Hospital, neither of which are as impressive as the abbey ruins but are both medieval.

Barley Hall

This late medieval townhouse has been restored and opened as a tourist attraction. It was tenanted during the 15th century by the Snawsell family; the father, William Snawsell, was mayor of York in 1468, after which he became an alderman until shortly before his death.

The restoration was done using medieval techniques and historically accurate materials as far as possible. Most of the house is interactive, so you can sit on chairs, pick-up objects, and try on the few available costumes. It’s great fun and very informative.

York Minster

It is believed that a small wooden church stood on this site in the 7th century. The Normans built the first stone Cathedral here, and this building has morphed slightly into the Minster we see today – most of the present building dates from the 13th and 14th centuries.

While you’re there, check-out the undercroft museum. This space is used to display the Roman and Medieval objects found buried under the Minster during engineering works in the 1960s and 70s. Medieval highlights include Saxon Gravestones, the Horn of Ulf, and a ring worn by Walter de Gray (a 13th century archbishop).

Merchant Adventurers Hall

Merchant Adventurer's Hall Great Hall
In the Great Hall

Not to be confused with the Merchant Taylor’s Hall, the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall is one of York’s Guildhalls. Built during the mid-14th century, it is still used as a meeting place for the Company of Merchant Adventurers of the City of York. The Company used to be a guild of importers; today they manage the hall and several charities.

The building combines a Great Hall (for meetings) with an Undercroft (for charity) and a Chapel (for religion). The Great Hall is particularly spectacular, with a double ceiling; also look out for the Evidence Chest, a 14th century box used to store the guild’s important documents.

There are also several smaller rooms (perhaps used for more intimate gatherings) with various items from the Hall’s history on display, including silverware, artworks, and a model Napoleon with a very interesting history. All visitors are given a written guide that explains what everything is and what it was used for.

JORVIK Viking Centre

From outside, the building that houses the JORVIK Viking Centre is disappointing; it looks nothing like you would expect. But once inside, the Viking theme becomes much more apparent.

Visitors are guided into a “capsule” that takes them through a recreation of 10th century York. This recreation is based on what was found during an excavation of the site where the Viking Centre stands today.

Once the ride is over, there is a museum/display area that shows some of the Viking era objects that were uncovered on the site. These include the remains of two people, numerous combs, and a sock. There are also several “Vikings” available to answer questions and show off various aspects of Viking life.

Churches

Holy Trinity Goodramgate

By the 14th century, York had over 40 parish churches. More than a dozen church buildings from the medieval era still stand, and while some have been repurposed, many are still used as places of worship.

Unless you’re really into old churches, I recommend picking two or three churches (in addition to the Minster) and visiting those. They tend to look similar to each other after a while and it can be difficult to pick out something special about each one.

Click here to read my post on Medieval Churches of York.

The Shambles

The Shambles is a narrow lane that is said to be one of the UK’s most picturesque streets. Up until the 19th century, it was home to the city’s butchers – several buildings still have their old meat-hooks and shelves for displaying meat on the front.

Today, it is lined with mostly non-meat-selling shops, including at least four Harry Potter themed shops, specialty food shops, and other stores perfect for buying quality souvenirs. Through a small alleyway on the western side of the Shambles, there is an open-air market that is also quite nice to wander around, and much less crowded.

Enjoyed this post? Please share on Social Media or leave a comment. Been to York and carried out your own search for the medieval era? How did it go?

Want to create your own epic personalised travel souvenir? Get my free travel journal prompts printable here.

* indicates required
Posted on by — 2 Comments

Review: Highland Hearts by Hannah Howell

Review of Highland Hearts, an historical romance by Hannah Howell set in medieval Scotland

Highland Hearts by Hannah Howell cover
Save Me on Pinterest!!

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission, at no extra cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link. Please see our full disclosure for further information.

Synopsis

Moments after Tessa Delgado frees Sir Revan Halyard from her uncle’s dungeon, Revan kidnaps her. Revan suspects that Tessa’s uncle is involved in a plot to overthrow King James II and she just happens to have the information that he needs. Suddenly they are on the run, trying to reach the King before Uncle Thurkettle and the treacherous Douglases can track them down.

Forced together, Revan and Tessa find themselves increasingly attracted to each other and before long have begun a “no strings attached” affair. This is complicated when Tessa’s other uncle, Sir Silvio Delgado Comyn, demands that Revan marry her. Knowing how Revan feels about the land and money she has inherited, Tessa determines that she must find a way to release him despite how much she has come to love him.

Review

Highland Hearts was fast-paced with lots of action. Revan and Tessa are constantly running from some sort of danger or trying to get their various bits of information to the king. Even once they’ve passed their information on, they quickly uncover more information, making their flight to the king even more urgent.

These two have sex far too soon for my liking. I get that they’ve been alone in a cave together for days on end and there is this immediate connection between them. However, it is the 15th century and Tessa is an obviously virtuous young woman. There is no way they would have done anything like this so quickly in real life.

Despite all the trouble she was in, she knew sleep would come quickly. It was just weighting her body when she felt Revan slip under the blanket and lay down beside her. Wide-eyed with shock, suddenly alert, she turned to stare at his broad back.

“What are you doing?” she squeaked.

“Going to sleep.”

“Ye canna sleep here.”

“’Tis the only place to sleep there is. Wheesht, I am too weary to bother with some fool lass’s outrage. I am also too weary to be any threat to any female. So ye can just calm yourself down and go to sleep.”

It was interesting to see how the characters dealt with Tessa having money while Revan had none. Usually the man has the money while the woman may have a small dowry (and not much more). Revan seems to be the only one who sees any problem with him not having any money to contribute to his potential marriage.

Conclusion

Have you read Highland Hearts? What did you think? Do you agree with what I’ve said about it? Let me know in the comments.

Want to get more from your reading? Get my free book review template here.

* indicates required
Posted on by — Leave a comment

Review: White Rose Rebel by Janet Paisley

Review of White Rose Rebel, historical fiction by Janet Paisley set in 18th century Scotland

White Rose Rebel by Janet Paisley cover
Save Me on Pinterest!!

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission, at no extra cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link. Please see our full disclosure for further information.

Synopsis

Anne Farquharson, lady McIntosh, is a staunch Jacobite. When her husband, Aeneas, is forced to join the government forces to put down the ’45 rising, she raises the men of the clan herself. Throughout the conflict Anne and Aeneas constantly find themselves coming up against each other.

Following the end of the rising at Culloden, Anne is given to Aeneas as a virtual prisoner. Together, they must rebuild their relationship and come to terms with the end of Scottish culture. Meanwhile, Anne does all in her power to secure the freedom of those Jacobite supporters who are being kept prisoner. Aeneas tries to help her but must maintain the appearance of supporting the crown and keeping Anne controlled.

Review

White Rose Rebel is a well-researched book, told primarily from a woman’s point of view. Three aspects of the major characters’ lives (war, politics, and love) are beautifully woven together to create an emotional adventure. The love triangle between Aeneas, Anne, and MacGillivray is realistic and heart-breaking.

I loved how the English were portrayed as barbarians while the Scottish were forward thinking and civilised, particularly in how they treat their women. It was an interesting look at what makes a culture civilised (such as equality) and the English inclination to conquer and “civilise” everyone else.

Meg went to the woman’s horse, running her hands expertly over its back leg. The man stirred in his saddle, clearly uncomfortable.

“Move, Helen,” he insisted. “These northern tribes are savages.”

As Cath arrived beside them, Meg looked up from her examination of the horse. “Tha e crùbach,” she said, in her own Gaelic tongue. “It’s lame.”

Anne grabbed hold of the bridle on the man’s mount.

“Among savages,” she said, “wives don’t walk while husbands ride.”

I liked how the story continued well past Culloden. Many books in this kind of setting use Culloden as either a starting or ending point. It was nice to see how such a major event changed things. That being said, I’m a tad disappointed that neither Anne nor Aeneas was actually at Culloden during the battle.

The very end of the story felt a bit rushed. Even though Anne and Aeneas had been becoming closer to each other again after Culloden, and they did magnificently at the Duke of Cumberland’s ball (such a fantastic scene), their final reconciliation happens a bit suddenly.

Conclusion

Have you read this book? What did you think? Do you agree with what I’ve said about it? Let me know in the comments.

Want to get more from your reading? Get my free book review template here.

* indicates required

Posted on by — 2 Comments

15 Beautiful Medieval Churches to Visit in York, England

15 Beautiful Medieval Churches You Must Visit in York, England
Save Me on Pinterest!!

York is absolutely littered with old churches, many of them medieval. 14th century York had more than 40 parish churches, plus the cathedral/minster and several monasteries. Many of them are still standing and can be visited. Read on for my comprehensive list of York’s Medieval churches, along with some honourable mentions.

York Minster

York Minster

York Minster is the huge cathedral at the northern corner of the old city. It is the largest Gothic Cathedral in Northern Europe (don’t take my word on that – I haven’t gone to all the Gothic cathedrals in Northern Europe and measured them).

There may have been a wooden church on this site in York from the 7th century, but construction on the first stone cathedral here started in the 11th century. That cathedral was significantly remodelled from 1220 onwards and became the magnificent building that we see today.

The Minster is the only medieval church on this list that visitors have to pay to enter. While it’s not overly cheap, it is well worth paying for. You cannot go to York without visiting York Minster.

All Saints North Street

This is one of the more out of the way churches in the centre of York. It is located along a quiet stretch of North Street between Lendal and Ouse bridges; access from the Lendal Bridge end is difficult, so I recommend finding your way along from Micklegate.

All Saints North Street claims to have one of the best collections of medieval stained glass in England. This collection includes the Corporal Acts of Mercy window (showing a local wealthy merchant helping the sick and poor) and the Pricke of Conscience window (based on a middle English poem).

All Saints Pavement

All Saints Pavement Church, York

Looking down along one of the first streets in York to be paved, All Saints has a tall lantern tower that can be seen from all around the city; presumably the light used to guide travellers towards the city.

This church has a long history, with firm evidence for it having existed since at least the 10th century. It seems to have been a wealthy church with local leaders and merchants as parishioners and once housed a valuable holy relic. Enter the nave and look up – the stunning blue-panelled ceiling dates from the 15th century.

St Helen Stonegate

Towering over St Helen’s Square, this church in the centre of York is dedicated to the mother of Emperor Constantine. There is a stained-glass window in the church with glass from the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries – two of the panels show images that probably represent St Helen and Constantine. Another interesting feature is a memorial to some particularly long-lived sisters.

Much of the church has been rebuilt several times over the centuries, most recently during the Victorian era. The oldest part still there is the font, which dates from the 12th century. There is still some 13th century stonework, but most of the building dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.

St Martin-le-Grand

Inside St Martin-le-Grand

Founded in the 11th century, this church was extended in the 13th century and had significant buildings works done in the 15th century. In 1730 it became York’s official civic church, and the National Gazetteer of 1868 called it one of the most beautiful churches in York.

Unfortunately, St Martin-le-Grand was bombed during the Second World War. The remains were rebuilt into a memorial to the victims of war. The south wall is original, as is the window at the west end of the building (it was removed to keep it safe during the war and built into the reconstruction). Today, it is a very calm place to take some time out in the middle of the busy city centre.

St Mary Bishophill Junior

The first part of this church to be built was the tower, which dates from just following the Norman Conquest. Shortly afterwards, the nave was built for the growing congregation. As the room at the base of the tower is presently used as a prayer and meeting space, it claims to be the longest continually used worship space in York.

Saint Denys Walmgate

Saint Denys Walmgate norman doorway

St Denys is a French saint who reportedly carried his decapitated head for several miles. It is worth visiting because of this story alone, even if the church wasn’t so interesting. The building was originally quite a bit larger but part of the land subsided when the King’s Fishpool was drained and a sewer built nearby.

The Norman-style entrance doorway is one of the oldest features, dating from the 1160s-ish. There are also some 12th century carved heads and roundels (thought to be the oldest glass in York). Other notable features include the rest of the stained-glass windows and monuments to the powerful Percy family who lived nearby.

Of all the medieval churches in York, St Denys Walmgate was my favourite.

St Margaret’s Church

This church has existed since at least the 12th century. It was never as rich as neighbouring St Denys, and very little of the original building has stood the test of time. The building was largely rebuilt and enlarged during the 14th century, and during the 17th century the steeple collapsed and wasn’t repaired for yonks.

Today, it is home to the National Centre for Early Music (early music being medieval and renaissance era music). If you ask me, St Margaret’s is the best setting for such an organisation.

Church of the Holy Trinity Goodramgate

Church of the Holy Trinity Goodramgate

Tucked out of sight behind a busy row of shops, this is the only church in York that still has its’ box-pews. Most of the building is from the 15th century, but there are pieces from as early as the 12th century still visible.

The atmosphere inside is old-fashioned and authentic. It has uneven floors, several small alcoves, no electric lighting, and a gorgeous churchyard. I was there in January and I could see my breath. If you’re interested in LGBT history, this is the place where Anne Lister and Ann Walker “took sacrament to seal their union” in 1834.

St Olave’s Church

Just outside the Marygate entrance to the Museum Gardens, St Olave’s used to be home to the order that built St Mary’s Abbey. It was founded in the early 11th century and dedicated to the Viking warrior/king who took Christianity to Norway.

Its’ location makes it easy to visit alongside the Yorkshire Museum and Museum Gardens. Outside, the entrance seems small. Inside, it is large and airy, if a bit dim due to the lack of electric lighting. The churchyard is gorgeous, surrounded by the city walls with beautiful trees providing shade.

St Andrew’s Evangelical Church

The history of this plain building starts during the 14th century. The church was closed in 1559 and over the following centuries the building had many uses, including a stable, a brothel, and a school. Today, it’s back to being a church. It’s small, but they’ve kept many original features, especially outside.

St Cuthbert’s Church

The Lord Mayor of York, William de Bowes, had this church rebuilt in 1430. It has strong links to the family of James Wolfe (aka the Hero of Quebec) leading to it sometimes being called the Cradle of Canada.

It has combined with St Michael le Belfry and now the building is used as church offices. Going inside for a look is difficult, but there’s nothing to see here that you cannot see at another medieval church.

St Michael’s Spurriergate Church

Today the Spurriergate Centre is a chartable trust with an aim to provide community and hospitality with a Christian focus. It is housed in the building that used to house St Michael’s Church; the first stone church here was built in the 12th century and much of the current building is 14th and 15th century.

St Martin-cum-Gregory

St Martin’s Church dates back to the 11th century, though much of the remaining building is from the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1585, St Martin’s combined with St Gregory’s to become St Martin-cum-Gregory. The church now houses a branch of the Stained-Glass Centre.

The Stained-Glass Centre holds lectures and workshops about stained-glass making techniques and history. The building of St Martin-cum-Gregory has what is supposedly some great stained-glass windows, but opening is limited and it wasn’t open during the time I was in York.  

Holy Trinity Priory

Inside Holy Trinity Priory

A church has been here since before the Norman Conquest. Afterwards, it was left in some disrepair until a group of Benedictine monks from France rebuilt it. The Priory was caught up in the Dissolution of the Monasteries and became a regular parish church.

Today, there are some lovely displays at the back showing visitors the history of the church, the Bible, and the Benedictine order. It’s one of the few churches I visited in York that looked set-up to receive visitors (not just open).

Honourable Mentions

  • St Michael le Belfry: this church may or may not be medieval, depending on what date you put on the end of the middle ages. Built between 1525 and 1536, it sits on the site of the old Minster Belfry. It is best known as the church where Guy Fawkes was baptised.
  • St Wilfrid’s Catholic Church: the original church of St Wilfrid was demolished in 1585. The parish was revived in the 1740s and the present church built in the 1860s in the gothic revival style (it looks medieval).
  • St Saviourgate Unitarian Chapel: this church was built for Presbyterian worship in the 1690s, following the passing of an act allowing greater freedom of worship. Unusually for this time, it is largely made of bricks.

So that’s my super comprehensive list of Medieval Churches in York. Have you visited any of these churches? Tell me what you thought. Do you know of any that I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments.

Want to create your own epic personalised travel souvenir? Get my free travel journal prompts printable here.

* indicates required
Posted on by — 1 Comment

Review: Highland Sinner by Hannah Howell

Review of Highland Sinner, historical romance set in 15th century Scotland by Hannah Howell

Highland Sinner by Hannah Howell cover
Save Me on Pinterest!!

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission, at no extra cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link. Please see our full disclosure for further information.

Synopsis

Women are being brutally murdered and butchered. Sir Tormand Murray has had affairs with all of them. Before long, rumours are circulating that he is responsible for the deaths and Tormand’s life is threatened by fearful locals intent on justice. His friend, Simon, soon arrives to investigate.

With more women dying and no leads to follow, Simon and Tormand meet with Morainn, a young woman who has visions. Morainn agrees to help but doing so quickly lands her in danger from the killers, and she moves to Tormand’s house so that his relatives can protect them.

Tormand fights his attraction to Morainn, fearing what she means for his future. However, constantly being in the same house makes it impossible to avoid her, and before long he finds himself trying to woo her.

Review

Highland Sinner is just as much mystery as it is romance. Who is murdering all these women? Why are they framing Tormand? Will Morainn ever find out where Walin came from? The ‘Tormand and Morainn relationship’ storyline seems to be secondary to the mystery a lot of the time.

I was pleased by how Tormand had already started getting over his “leaping from one bed to another like some demented toad” before meeting Morainn. There are too many books out there already where the hero acts horribly at the beginning and the heroine changes him.

I absolutely loved Tormand’s relationship with his family. They obviously care for each other and would do anything to save Tormand from suffering. Yet, there’s constant complaining about each other and teasing among them (especially about Tormand’s reputation and attempts to woo Morainn).

I didn’t like how much the relationship between Tormand and Morainn was analysed. There are way too many instances where Tormand ponders his feelings and future, or Morainn weighs the consequences of becoming his lover. It’s an effective way of showing how their relationship progresses, but it feels overdone.

Conclusion

Have you read Highland Sinner? What did you think? Do you agree with what I’ve said about it? What about other books by Hannah Howell? Let me know in the comments.

If you haven’t, it can be bought at Book Depository (they have free worldwide shipping!).

Want to get more from your reading? Get my free book review template here.

* indicates required
Posted on by — 7 Comments

Five Fantastic and Free Things to do in York, UK

Free things to do in York, UK
Save Me on Pinterest!!

There isn’t much to do in the English city of York that is free. To be honest, most things to do are priced quite highly for what they are. However, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t free things to do if you look hard enough.

City Walls

York City Walls (Free things to do in York)

After repairs in the Victorian era, the walls were opened as a public walkway. They still follow the path they followed during the middle ages. From different points along the walkway, you can see the Minster, several churches, and other interesting sites. The walk makes a fantastic introduction/orientation to York.

Due to uneven pathways and a lack of safety railing along several sections, most of the walls are unsuitable for small children who might run off. Be aware that they get busy during summer and are often closed due to bad weather in winter.

National Railways Museum

National Railways Museum (Free things to do in York)

This is basically a couple of huge sheds filled with all things trains. There’s really old trains, modern trains, royal trains, war trains – pretty much every kind of train you could possibly think of. In addition to this, they have periodic demonstrations, talks, and train experiences.

Entrance is free, though they do bag checks and ask for £5 donations as you walk through the door. I was there on a wet weekend morning and it was jam-packed full of families with small children – you may wish to keep this in mind while planning your visit.

Museum Gardens

The gardens around the Yorkshire Museum are beautiful and free to walk through. Two of the more notable things to see in the gardens are the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey and the Multangular Tower. Apparently, there are some interesting plants and wildlife, but I don’t know anything about that kind of thing.

Walking Tour

Cat Trail

There are at least two companies that do free walking tours of York: the Association of Voluntary Guides and White Rose York (they say they’re free, but expect to tip – about £5 per person seemed normal).

I was very impressed with the White Rose York tour I went on, though I was by far the youngest tourist (I take it most backpackers my age go on the earlier Association of Voluntary Guides tour). Our guide was fantastic and kept telling us stories (we asked him to) so that the tour lasted much longer than advertised.

Alternatively, you could wander the Snickleways in the centre of the city by yourself (don’t miss The Shambles). It is rather easy to lose track of where you are, however, so I don’t recommend this. There is also a self-guided Cat Trail; it leads you around the city, looking at cats on the sides of buildings. The cats themselves are underwhelming, but at least they gave some structure to my wanderings.

Churches

Holy Trinity Goodramgate (Free things to do in York)

York is littered with picturesque medieval churches, many of which are still in use. With the exception of the Minster, they’re free to enter when open. Some are more spectacular than others, but they all have their individual quirks and differences in history.

I was fortunate enough to be in York for Residents’ Weekend, so a lot of the churches had increased accessibility and extra volunteers available. My favourites would include St Denys Walmgate and Holy Trinity Goodramgate.

So that’s my list of free things to do in York. Do you want to visit York? or have you already been there?

Want to create your own epic personalised travel souvenir? Get my free travel journal prompts printable here.

* indicates required
Posted on by — 2 Comments

Hello Friends and Family: York

York is a great city. I love York. It has so much history. Now, it’s been a while since I visited, but I didn’t feel like writing about it at that point. So I didn’t. But now I’ve been home for quite a bit, I thought it was about time.

Having heard that the City Walls Walk served as a good orientation to the city, I was going to walk it on my first day in York. However, it was drizzling, so I thought it might be better to spend a day inside. Instead, I went to the Yorkshire Museum. The museum was awesome. I especially loved the large space downstairs with all the medieval stuff.

My second full day in York had fine weather, so I did the City Walls Walk. Starting at Micklegate Bar, I did the Henry VII Experience (small, but interesting). From there I walked clockwise along the walls, looking at the city from all angles. The Richard III experience wasn’t as interesting for me as the Henry VII one, and I had a bit of trouble finding the walls again by the King’s Pool. Otherwise, it was a very enjoyable walk.

On Sunday I tried a self-guided walk from a brochure that took me around a number of cat statues on buildings. The cats themselves were underwhelming, but it provided some structure for my wandering around the city’s snickleways. I finished the walk with a good chunk of the afternoon left, so I went to the art gallery – it had a fairly interesting selection of old paintings.

The following day I went to York Castle Museum and climbed Clifford’s Tower. While an excellent museum, the York Castle Museum had mostly recent and social history (not really my thing). I enjoyed it, but I don’t think I’ll be rushing back. The museum is next to Clifford’s Tower; there’s not much to see in there, but the views from the top are spectacular.

I started Tuesday with the Jorvik Viking Centre. I had been expecting something geared more towards children, but it was really very interesting. From there, I wander along to Pavement (the first paved street in York) and bought some doughnuts for lunch (so yum). The church of All Saints Pavement was right there, so I took a look before going to the Merchant Taylor’s Hall.

I spent more time at York Minster on Wednesday than I had thought I would. I arrived right on time to join one of the free tours (great!). I liked hearing all the stories and having various details pointed out, but my favourite part was going around afterwards by myself and spending as long as I liked looking closer at things.

On Thursday, I joined the “free” guided tour by White Rose York. Our guide was called David, and aside from being a bit odd (with dreadful teeth), he was a brilliant guide. He was particularly good at altering the tour to suit the group. I made friends with the dog that joined the group with her owner (Jo – such a sweet, well behaved dog).

Friday started at Bar Convent, a building just outside Micklegate that hid a convent of catholic nuns during the late 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition was alright, the chapel even better (despite the elderly volunteer guide who was so bored he kept offering one-on-one tours of the rest of the exhibition). In the afternoon, I went to Barley Hall. It was a bit difficult to find, but was appropriately authentic (so cool!).

I went to the centre of York, to the Roman Bath Museum, on Saturday morning. It was a tad underwhelming, but I had great fun with the dress-ups at the end. From there, I walked around looking at medieval churches that I hadn’t been to yet. My favourite was St Denys Walmgate, with Holy Trinity Goodramgate and its box pews a close second.

After a late start on Sunday (thanks horrible Spaniards in my dorm) I wandered down to the National Railway Museum. I didn’t find it interesting, but it was free. In the afternoon, some of the guys at the hostel I was staying at (Astor York) held an Australia Day BBQ, with funds raised going to the bushfire relief efforts. I spent a lot of time standing around and talking to various people; it was really lovely.

Posted on by — 1 Comment

Hello Friends and Family: Edinburgh

I arrived in Edinburgh on Monday, following a train ride north from York. The train was running about half an hour late, but I got to my hostel without any problems. My room is on the top floor (it’s annoying that there’s no lifts for the luggage) and I’m in a bed called “James Bond.”

That evening, the hostel had a group going to a local pub for a pub quiz (apparently this happens every Monday). It was loud and rude and really not my thing but I’m glad I went; if nothing else, it was good to meet new people and socialise a bit.

I met a couple of the girls that had also been at the pub quiz at breakfast the next day. They were going to Dean Village so I joined them. It was pretty and peaceful enough, but would hardly be worth the walk if I was by myself. From there, one of the girls wanted to go to Linlithgow, so I went with her. We went around the palace but didn’t go in; I spent the next couple of days wishing I’d paid to enter and had a bit more time in the town.

Dean Village

On Wednesday, I went to the National Museum of Scotland. The museum was really good; I particularly enjoyed (and spent most of my time in) the Scottish History galleries. That evening, the hostel was taking a group to a ceilidh at a local bar, and I was planning to go, but both pairs of shoes were too wet to go out in.

I went around the museums on Thursday. I had only meant to go to the Writers’ Museum, the Museum on the Mound, and maybe St Giles Cathedral (if I had time). However, they didn’t take as long as I had thought, and by the end of the day I had been to the Museum of Childhood, John Knox House, Museum of Edinburgh, and the People’s Story.

On my way to finish off the museums on Friday, I spotted the Scottish National Gallery so took a look. I couldn’t find the Physicians’ Gallery but carried on to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. How many pictures of Bonnie Prince Charlie does one gallery need? I didn’t feel like going to the Surgeon’s Hall Museum, so went back to the National Museum for the rest of the afternoon.

Linlithgow Palace

On Saturday I did a little day trip to Linlithgow. I started with St Michael’s Parish Church; it’s a lovely building, very much like other churches from this period (it’s a shame so many of them in London burnt down). St Michael’s is next to Linlithgow Palace, the ruins of a palace lived in by several generations of Scottish kings and the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. I enjoyed exploring all the nooks and crannies inside.

My final day in Edinburgh was spent on Calton Hill. I really liked the view of Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags. On the way back to the hostel, I came across a man with an owl. The owl’s name was Hazel, and I took the opportunity to hold her (such a sweet bird).

Posted on by — Leave a comment

Review of Palmer’s Lodge Swiss Cottage Hostel in London

It is going to be tough, writing a balanced review for this hostel: you have been warned. I stayed at Palmer’s Lodge Swiss Cottage for a week and a half in December 2019. Overall, I had a pretty bad stay, but I still think it’s probably a pretty good hostel (if things go right for you).

The Good

The showers are divine. They have excellent water pressure and aren’t on a timer or some kind of system where you have to push a button every 30 seconds to keep the water running.

The internet was fast on my phone. It was so good to be able to watch videos and video chat with my mother without the picture continually stopping and starting.

Location: while Swiss Cottage is a fair way out from the centre of London, it’s still within transport zone 2 and is conveniently on the Jubilee Line (easy connections to anywhere in town). The hostel is a short walk from the tube station with a Tesco Express on the way and a variety of other shops (including McDonalds) just across the road.

The Booking Fiasco

This is where it gets rough. There was a mix up with my booking. I booked several months in advance to ensure that I would be able to get exactly what I needed. Between then and my arrival, they changed what many of the rooms were used for, resulting in the room that I had booked (6-bed female dorm) no longer existing.

So they put me in an 8-bed female dorm; by the time I checked-in and found out, there was no way to put me in a smaller dorm. The guy I spoke to arranged for me to receive free breakfasts throughout my stay instead – very nice but didn’t actually help the problem.

Anyway, about half-way through my stay I had a midnight breakdown (full on shaking, head under the pillow, etc.). In the morning, I went down to reception and told the lady there that I wasn’t coping; she managed to put me in an emergency private room off a back stairwell. It was tiny (little more than a cupboard with a bed in it) but it was quiet, and I was able to struggle through the cold that I came down with the next day without worrying about disturbing anyone.

Conclusion

I appreciate that the staff did everything they could to help me enjoy my stay. However, it was still pretty awful. I believe all these problems could have been avoided if they had gotten in touch with me when they first changed the rooms. At that point, they might still have had a bed in a smaller dorm that I could have been put in, or failing that, I could have booked somewhere else that suited me better.

Posted on by — 1 Comment

Hello Friends and Family: London II

My first full day back in London was a busy one. I tried to do the Roads to Rome walk by City of London Corporation, but kept stopping to take a closer look at things along the way. Despite forgetting to book beforehand, there was space for me to see the London Mithraeum. The whole experience is very well done.

Me at the London Mithraeum

From there, I walked past the London Stone, down Fish Street Hill, to the Monument. Even though it wasn’t on the walk, I took the opportunity and went to the top. The stairs are extremely narrow, and the climb had my legs and lungs burning, but the view was so worth it.

At the bottom of Fish Street Hill is the church of St Magnus the Martyr. Not surprisingly, I went in. It was awesome, but not as awesome as the next church I visited: All Hallows by the Tower. One of the few churches to survive the Great Fire, it doesn’t have Wren stamped all over it; in fact, there is an arch inside that was built during the Saxon period, and the museum in the crypt houses all kinds of wonderful Roman and Medieval treasures found on the site.

Aiming for a bit of a slower day, on Saturday I wandered down to Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park. It was very pleasant. I had picked up a brochure outlining a “Plants and People” walk through the cemetery, just to give my wandering a bit of direction; it did what I wanted it to, but it was impossible to actually identify the plants along the way (probably because it was winter). There was plenty of wildlife, though, and people walking their dogs.

Headstones crowded like teeth in a small jaw

Sunday was the day I continued the Roads to Rome walk. Unfortunately, some of the tube lines were closed, so I couldn’t get back to Tower Hill (where I left off on Friday). I ended up at Bank station, tried and failed to exit at Monument, and so caught the next train to London Bridge. It was quite the adventure.

Having crossed back to the right side of the river, I headed towards Tower Hill. On the way, I found St Dunstan’s in the East; there was more church ruins and less garden than I had expected (I loved it, until lots more people arrived and it got busy). Being near Tower Bridge, I went inside for the Tower Bridge Exhibition. It was cool to see the history of the bridge, but I don’t think I would pay to do it again.

I followed the walk through Leadenhall Market (rather unimpressive), past the Royal Exchange and Guildhall, to St Alphage Garden. St Alphage Garden houses a section of the old Roman wall, extensively repaired during the Wars of the Roses. Nearby are the remains of the tower of St Elsyng Spital (unexpected but cool to see). I finished the day with a couple of hours at the Museum of London (I have to go back – I only got as far as the Medieval gallery).

Resting at St Alphage Garden

On Monday I had plans to meet one of my sisters for lunch near her office. Since it’s only a couple of tube stops along from Cockfosters, I swung by to take a photo (it was too good an opportunity to pass up). After lunch, I went to the Guildhall. The art was a lot more interesting than that at Tate Modern, but the Amphitheatre was pretty unspectacular. I enjoyed seeing the Great Hall, and the police museum was worth a quick look.

Wednesday was a Southwark day. I started by walking across London Bridge (Monument was much easier to get to than London Bridge station). The first major thing I did was wander around the Crossbones Graveyard – so much history, but it seems to be all garden these days.

This skull is made of coins

From there, I made my way towards Shakespeare’s Globe, but decided that going inside was too expensive (even with the discount voucher I picked-up from the hostel), so I went to Southwark Cathedral instead. So much history!!!!!